Exploring
Our Origins:
Sumatra's Gayo Cooperative
by
Maryann Schrupp
In mid-1997, ForesTrade, Inc., an organic product company
based in Vermont, selected the Gayo highlands in the
northern province of Aceh on the island of Sumatra, as an
optimal site for a Sustainable Organic Coffee Project.
This fertile and landlocked mountainous region is the
largest producer of Arabica coffee in Southeast Asia. The
province is also well known for its protracted and brutal
civil war between the Acehnese separatists and the
Indonesian military. American investment in the area has
been limited to the embattled massive Exxon Mobil oil and
natural gas facility in Lhoksemauwe.
ForesTrade
initiated the project by sending two of their most
seasoned local field staff, Oktavianus Zebua and Risnawan
Purba to the region, with the task of locating local
innovators and risk-takers with a strong vision. In the
region of Takengon, Aceh, a local non-government
organization (NGO), Yayasan Pemerhati Sosial Indonesia,
helped connect them with two farmer leaders, Iswandi Idris
and Mohammad Salim, and a local coffee processor, Misriadi
Mude Saad. As life-long coffee growers with a passion for
both coffee and the land, they understood the concept of
organic farming, and introduced the idea to other farmers
in the area. Many of the early participants were members
of the extended families of the founders. They encouraged
new members to avoid using agrochemicals or planting new
varieties of coffee. This would change the unique flavor
of their product and could alter their sustainable
shade-grown cropping system.
What
started as a initiative between the Vermont-based company
and two small groups of coffee growers has now grown into
a 1400 member Farmers Cooperative in 24 communities — Persatuan
Petani Kopi Gayo Organik (Gayo Organic Coffee
Farmer’s Association) — or PPKGO. They now can proudly
produce over 1,500 tons of Sumatra and Indonesia’s only
Fair Trade and Organic Certified Coffee. ForesTrade helped
with the Fair Trade and Organic Certification process of
the farmers, as well as introduce the farmers of Takengon
to the International Fair Trade Market. Now PPKGO works in
partnership with ForesTrade’s local Indonesian staff to
coordinate the exporting of the goods from a processing
facility in Medan. Today Iswandi is the director of the
cooperative, Salim is the Regional Director for ForesTrade
in Takengon, Misriadi has become the project’s processor
and exporter, and Oktavianus and Purba run the processing
plant in Medan.
The
farmers of Takengon are predominantly members of the Gayo
ethnic group, devoutly Muslim and trying to remain
non-partisan in the Aceh conflict. The region is composed
of 60% Gayo, 30% Javanese, and 10% Acehenese, and today
the Organic Cooperative encompasses members of every
ethnic group and various religions, including Christians.
A significant part of the success of the coffee project
lies in the interethnic diversity of the cooperative, an
incredible feat in a region of intercultural violence.
Recently,
two of the founders of the project, Mohammad Salim and
Iswandi Idris, visited the USA and were able to
communicate with customers, consumers, and the media about
their coffee and their Project. They spoke about their
current challenges in keeping up with demand and
maintaining the quality of their product, in overcoming
transport blockages by organizing 24-hour convoys through
remote forests. They were very articulate in describing
the difference that Fair Trade and organic were making in
their lives and their communities. The farmers and the
cooperative benefit greatly from additional funds provided
by the Fair Trade and Organic premiums, as well as
receiving financial support for field projects from
customers such as Green Mountain Coffee Roasters (GMCR)
and Cooperative Coffee member Dean’s Beans.
A
key initial investment was the renovation of several
village mosques and their water supply systems. This helps
individual worshipers purify themselves before prayers,
improves community life and sanitation practices, and
provides pure water for adjacent coffee processing plants.
The funds have also provided for a full-fledged
rehabilitation program for members, replacing old and
unproductive plants with indigenous "tipica"
seedlings. Over 35,000 seedlings have so far been
distributed in 4 villages.
Currently,
PPKGO’s highest priority is on setting up eight new
village-based wet processing mills to accommodate
increasing orders. They are also developing a credit
savings program for their members, in which the members
can contribute a portion of their earnings to create a
capital reserve fund. This gives the cooperative’s
farmers control over their own savings, independent of
government-controlled banks.
Salim
and Iswandi also spoke about the ecologic and economic
benefits of the Organic Program, including the use of
green manuring, compost, and the use of leguminous shade
trees. The annual pruning of trees has increased
production greatly, as every year the diseased and dead
matter is cleared away. Erosion control has also improved
in the area, so much so that Salim said he believed that
even without the Organic Program, the farmers would
continue to use natural forms of weed and pest control.
The result is that yields per hectare on a number of farms
have risen from about 1 to 1.6 tons per hectare, also
raising incomes in the process.
On
Monday, August 19, Salim and Iswandi met with
representatives of Cooperative Coffees, Equiterre, and
ForesTrade at Coffee Lab International in Waterbury, VT.
This was the first step in a two-week whirlwind tour of
the United States for both men, whose visas had not been
approved in time to attend the Fair Trade Forum at the
Specialty Coffee Association of America annual conference
in Anaheim last May 2002.
In
the coming harvest season, ForesTrade and PPKGO, with the
support of their customers and Coffee Lab International,
plan to install greater quality control measures in the
field, complete with a test cupping laboratory in Takengon.
The goal is to have the farmers themselves familiar with
the unique flavor profiles for their Sumatran coffee of
all of their customers.
Iswandi
mentioned that one of the most positive aspects of the
Program to the farmers was the consistency and loyalty of
the customers. The steady stream of contracts, their
number increasing along with the farmer members and levels
of production, is what has attracted the Gayo coffee
farmers to join PPKGO. It is the scruples of roasters such
as Café Campesino and ultimately, the discerning consumer
in the North American marketplace, that have helped to
make PPKGO and their wonderful coffee a well-deserved
success.
Here
are a few links for more information:
ForesTrade
http://www.forestrade.com/
Coffee
Lab International
http://www.coffeelab.com/
Equiterre
http://www.equiterre.qc.ca/english/coffee/index.html
-----
Maryann
Schrupp is the U.S. Supply Chain Manager for
ForesTrade, Inc. A native of Brattleboro, VT, her
background is in International Affairs and Economics.
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